從果阿到台北|夏花餐室的豬梅花酸辣咖哩 From Goa to Taipei|Pork Vindaloo at Summer Flowers

「酸辣」是 Vindaloo 留給味蕾的第一印象,而它的故事,從一段跨越海洋的旅程寫起。

Vindaloo的起源

來自印度西岸果阿(Goa)的 Vindaloo,起源於葡萄牙料理 Carne de Vinha d’Alhos :一道以大蒜、葡萄酒、紅酒醋醃製保存肉類的傳統料理。大航海時代,這套醃肉方式隨著葡萄牙水手與傳教士抵達果阿。除了大蒜,果阿人用棕櫚醋取代不易取得的葡萄酒醋,以紅辣椒取代匈牙利紅椒粉,再加入手邊的羅望子、黑胡椒和其他印度香料,漸漸勾勒出果阿自有的風味輪廓。Vindaloo 這個名字,也是從葡萄牙語 Vinha d’Alhos 漸漸演變而來的。

這道菜後來隨著人們的腳步、從果阿來到英國的餐桌上。信仰天主教的果阿廚師,不受印度教或伊斯蘭教飲食禁忌的限制,深受英國雇主青睞;而返鄉的英國殖民官員與水手,又把念念不忘的味道帶回了英國。早期的英國食譜還保留著果阿風格,隨著南亞移民在英國各地開設印度餐廳,Vindaloo在英國餐飲文化中逐漸轉變,辣度被放大,成為許多人熟悉的「超辣咖哩」。

夏花餐室 豬梅花酸辣咖哩 pork vindaloo taipei

夏花餐室 豬梅花酸辣咖哩 Pork Vindaloo at Summer Flowers

夏花餐室的 Vindaloo

主廚 Joseph 選用在彰化田尾長大、以胡蘿蔔飼養的豬梅花肉,油花細緻,脂香恰好襯托酸味,優雅地詮釋 Vindaloo的獨特。身為果阿孩子的他,親自向外祖母請益家鄉配方,用丁香、肉桂、肉豆蔻皮、黑胡椒粒與辣椒堆疊香氣,以糯米醋調出明亮的酸度,最後將辣度收得更貼近台灣人的味覺。從 Vindaloo 原有的風味出發、結合台灣食材,擁有夏花靈魂的 Vindaloo、在台北落腳。


一道料理,走過不同的土地,走進不同的生活。在餐桌上、也在人們心裡,留下屬於自己的味道印記。


Sour and spicy — that's the first impression Vindaloo leaves on the palate. But its story begins with a journey across oceans.

The Origins of Vindaloo

Vindaloo comes from Goa, on India's west coast, and traces back to the Portuguese dish Carne de Vinha d'Alhos: a traditional preparation of meat preserved in garlic, wine, and red wine vinegar. During the Age of Exploration, this method of curing meat arrived in Goa with Portuguese sailors and missionaries. Beyond garlic, Goans substituted local palm vinegar for the hard-to-source wine vinegar, red chili from the Americas for Hungarian paprika, and added tamarind, black pepper, and other Indian spices close at hand — gradually shaping a flavor profile uniquely Goa's own. The name Vindaloo itself evolved from the Portuguese Vinha d'Alhos.

The dish later traveled with people from Goa to tables in England. Goan cooks, who were Catholic and unbound by Hindu or Muslim dietary restrictions, were favored by British employers; and British colonial officials and sailors, longing for the flavors they'd left behind, brought the dish home with them. Early British recipes still held onto their Goan character, but as South Asian immigrants opened Indian restaurants across Britain, Vindaloo transformed within British dining culture — its heat amplified into the "extra-hot curry" many now recognize.

Vindaloo at Summer Flowers

Staying true to the soul of Summer Flowers, Chef Joseph continues the journey of Vindaloo by drawing on Taiwanese ingredients and incorporating them with Vindaloo’s original Goan character.

Chef Joseph uses pork shoulder from selected carrot-fed pigs raised in central Taiwan’s Changhua County. The fine marbling and rich fat perfectly balances with the sour notes of the dish, elevating and elegantly reinterpreting what makes Vindaloo distinct. Being a child of Goa himself, Joseph turned to his grandmother for the family recipe, layering flavors through cloves, cinnamon, mace, whole black peppercorns, and chili, brightening the acidity with glutinous rice vinegar, and tempering the heat to suit Taiwanese palates.


A dish that has traveled across different lands and gone through various regional reinterpretations has now found a new home in Taipei at Summer Flowers.

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